I am very lucky to have seen some off the beaten track places in Europe, thanks to clients all over that country. The Stadttheater (city theatre) in Grein is one of those places I wouldn’t ‘otherwise have seen or known about! A colleague and I received a private tour of this fascinating theatre, with a fascinating history. There are no easy transport routes to Grain, although you could get an irregular local bus. Renting a car would be a good option. Accommodation is also scarce, but you it is an easy day trip from Linz. There are guided tours available.
Grein is a picturesque town in Upper Austria that has a rich tapestry of history and culture. With its charming streets, historic architecture, and a deep-rooted connection to the arts, Grein offers a unique glimpse into Austria’s artistic and cultural past.
The town sits snugly on the banks of the River Danube, with its focal point being Grein Castle, which is a home of the aristocratic and regal Saxe-Coburg-Goethe family – ancestors of the current British royal family (through Prince Albert, the husband of Queen Victoria).
A Glimpse into Grein’s History
After a drive through winding forest roads from Perg, we arrived in Grein and saw the many interesting sights around the town. Our hosts treated us to a coffee and cake in one of the Town’s most loved Konditorei, the Schoegi. When we’d looked around the grounds of the castle (we were out of guided tour hours) we had a peace sit by the Danube, before getting our private tour of the theatre.
In the Castle Courtyard
The Historic Stadttheater Grein
Among Grein’s many treasures, the Stadttheater Grein stands out as the town’s enduring commitment to the arts. Established in 1791, this Rococo-style theater is celebrated as the oldest original bourgeois theater in Austria that is still in regular use. Its creation was a communal endeavor, with local citizens and the town magistrate transforming a grain storage room of the 1563-built Grein Town Hall into a cultural venue.
The theater’s intimate setting accommodates 167 spectators, featuring unique “Sperrsitze” or locked seats in the first three rows. These seats could be secured with a personal key, ensuring reserved seating for patrons—a reflection of the societal structures of the time. Remarkably, the original keys are preserved and displayed within the theater, offering visitors a tangible connection to its storied past.
One feature of the theatre I found amusing was the toilet! It was in an alcove in the wall of the theatre, privacy made only possible by curtain, where you could poke you’re head out and see what was happening on stage, while still attending to unfinished ‘business’. (As you might expect, this is no longer a functioning toilet,…)
Architecturally, the Stadttheater Grein has retained much of its original charm. Significant renovations were carried out between 2020 and 2022 , introducing modern amenities like a lift. However the theater’s historical integrity remains intact. This delicate balance between preservation and modernization ensures that audiences can experience performances in a setting that echoes the ambiance of the late 18th century.
A Cultural Beacon Through the Ages
Throughout its existence, the Stadttheater Grein has been a focal point for cultural life in the town. In its early years, the theater hosted daily performances, with Sundays featuring up to three shows. Notably, during the Napoleonic Wars in November 1805, French Marshal Adolphe Édouard Casimir Joseph Mortier attended a performance, leading locals to mistakenly believe Napoleon himself was present. This event added a layer of intrigue to the theater’s history, with the box he occupied still referred to as the “Napoleon-Loge.”
The theater has been home to a local amateur dramatics society since 1992, that continues to stage productions. Additionally, from 1989 to 2012, the Leopold-Wandl-Preis was biennially awarded here. This prize recognises Austrian authors for poetry and prose in dialect, further cementing the theater’s role in promoting regional culture.
Grein: A Living Tapestry of History and Art
Beyond the theater, Grein offers a wealth of cultural and historical landmarks. The Greinburg Castle is perched majestically overlooking the town. It is one of Austria’s oldest residential castles and houses. The Upper Austrian Shipping Museum, highlighting the town’s integral role in Danube navigation. The late Gothic Parish Church of St. Ägidius, with its baroque altar is another architectural gem. .
Nature enthusiasts can explore the Stillensteinklamm, a 200-meter-deep gorge east of the town center, offering breathtaking views and a serene escape into nature.
Visit Grein
Grein has a blend of historical depth and cultural vibrancy and stands as a jewel along the Danube. The Stadttheater Grein, in particular, embodies the town’s dedication to preserving and celebrating its artistic heritage. For those seeking an authentic experience of Austria’s rich history and cultural tapestry, Grein offers an enchanting journey through time.
